And if I remember correctly you said autos? They are much more nute sensitive and don’t require quite as high PPMs as their photoperiod sisters.
Yes this is for autos
My recommendation would be to keep a small stock of liquid NPK nutrients on hand to address acute nutrient deficiencies. If you’re already seeing a deficiency, chances are you’ve waiting too long anyway. With what you’re using, microbes need 2-3 weeks before the nutrients in organic matter like worm castings become available for your plants. This is way too long to wait to address a concern if you decide to top dress. The compost may be hot enough to last the whole grow, but for me even 4000ppm ocean forest runs out by like weeks 5-6 flower.
I’m also not seeing a Mag Sulfur supplement or source, without that your flowers will have no heft or weight to them. Definitely recommend getting that and supplementing it directly. If you’re in a pinch, Epsom salts and black strap molasses are essentially the main ingredients, but you’d have to talk to an organic grower for a specific recipe.
A key component of set and forget soils is having everything you need from the beginning. If you lack anything, your grow goes from being set and forget to an impossible game of whack a mole.
I want to make sure you’re set up for maximum success! Sorry for such a long winded explanation.
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@Doob I use general hydroponics trio for my N, P, and K needs and use Botanicare Sweet (raw, berry, doesn’t really matter) for my magnesium sulfate needs. Together, both are very reasonable priced and readily available on Amazon.
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@CatDadPower i was thinking of spourting into just the Coast of Maine soil with a peat pot to getm started. These are runtz autos.
I still plant to start a new thread with my tent and lights lime you suggested and tagging all these people I keep bugging the hell out of. 
Hey Doob,
Living soil needs to include fungi, bacteria, and in a lot of cases live worms, but not all growers use worms. First you need to look up Chris Trump and LABs which I posted in GrowFAQs, and otherwise it is a process. I would not use Coco. (Save it for a Coc grow)
So ufngi, you get from mychorazzae, and bacteria you get from LABs HERE:
Here is the Chris Trump page on all things Natural farming. It will save you time and money once you get set up.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=labs+chris+trump
Making true Living soil is a process and cannot be accomplished just by mixing all the goodies. you have to build a fungal network, and create bacteria that will bond with this fungi, and in the end the LABs iwll kill of any bad bacteria, which is why this natural farming input is so important. I will check bakc later after you watch some Chris Trump videos to see if you have another question for me. Thanks for asking.
lw
In regard to Food grade DE; If you use it in your soil, you will be fine as long as you are not planning to use live worms. I recommend using live worms, but if you do, then you can only add DE to the top of soil in order to allow the worms to work it into the soil themselves. If you mix DE into soil and add worms, they will die from getting scratched and dehydrating. This is why we generally use DE as a treatment. I used it once in a common garden duster when I had
Spider mites, and the residual dust is still in the green room and I have never had Spider mites since, or any other crawly pest.
Cannot wait to see what you end up doing. One last thing, I use ProMix without adding other soil. I add the bacteria, and amendments as needed.
As far as used tea grounds. Always make a compost tea, never just add grounds to your soil. Making teas using Promix that contains a wetting agent, fungi, perlite, vermiculite, and dolomitic lime is all you need until you need to amend the soil on into the veg cycle and then in flower.
Will check on you later. Peace.
Any typos I apologize for, but I am legally blind and shit happens. LOL
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In a natural soil, you should not need to worry about this graph.
I think you forgot the graph…
The LABs video is interesting. It’s a really simple process and I like you can also make cheese. I’ll def have to look into that some more. I’m unsure if you are talking about adding the LABs to the Pro-Mix BX or to actual soil. I’m pretty sure that is for the soil mix since the Pro-Mix is usually used by itself with some extra perlite and then adding nutes with watering. I believe I have that correct.
I have also purchased some Gaia Green, Earth Dust, Mycorrhizal Inoculant, and the Old Truck Tom&Veg mix. It’s looking like I have a lot of research to do and what combinations I can use.
I purchased worm castings as well but I have read that is poisonous to worms… So I am a bit confused about those.
Sorry it took a few days, but I read your reply. LAB is a super bacteria that connects to good bacteria and eats bad bacteria, so it really does not matter what you have. My last few grows were ProMix BX alone (no extra perlite, and I have 400 lbs. of perlite), I use water soluble nutrients, and occasionally Cal-Mag+ the product when needed which is not often. As I said; you need Nutrients, fungi, in order to form happy microbes. Look up Jeff Lowenfels books :Teaming with fungi, teaming with microbes, teaming with nutrients. That is about all you need to know. I am wary of buying all kinds of additivies for a soil, when you do not need them unless; (you plan not to use any man made nutrients). If that is the case tehn you need to examine blood meal and bone meal, and/or any substitutes for these products. I iwll try to check back asap for your reply. Keeping your soil mix simple is the best way to go and if you find a need due to issues with your plants, then and then only would you need to add additives as necessary. Peace
lw
Ill look up Lowenfels and see those suggestions. I am using the below nutes when watering even thought I dont grow hydro.
How/when do you add the labs?
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Hey Noob,
Just got your reply in an email notification.
Apply LAB anytime and use it throughout grow, dosing plants with LAB
once a month should build a nice bacterial buffer.
GH 3=part can be used for soil as well. Depending on the NPK of your
soil mix, you may not need it much in veg, depending on how long you
veg. Have you decided what is going into your original soil? Let me
know.
Also; Look up the Lucas method. Even though that was originally used
for hydro, it makes sense to squewe towards that when using a soil that
contains NPK. With Lucas method, you only use Micro and Bloom parts as
the Micro has enough Nitrogen for flowering plants.
Talk soon, Peace,
lw
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Hey Bro,
Sorry I callled you Nood…Doob 
Latewood has ya covered
I have returned to GH after using FF nutes. It is straight forward and I just feel works better for my grow habits. I use it with happy frog too.
I always mix in DE into FF HF soil when I grow along with extra mycos and azos. Have roots three feet long when all done. I have only used living soil outside, easier to do so with compost and worms, but looks like latewood has you covered with those questions. Best of luck!
*edited because I shouldn’t use technology after 10pm
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