Daunting PH question

I just got my Northern Lights Auto seeds and am stoked to move them over to the soil as they have germinated!

I have done well on my last grows but to PH every single time has felt like a science project.
My water comes in super high between 9-10 so I have to use ph down.
My question(s) are:

  1. Does the PH need to be done before AND after adding nutes on feed days or can I just PH the water then add the nutes?
  2. Does the water temperature change between strains or can I maintain a 68-70 degrees on that across the board?
    Thank you in advance!
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Always PH after mixing the nutrients on feed days same for water days. No difference with strains and temps. Are you top feeding, bottom wicking or hydro :love_you_gesture:

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Also check your runoff pH (and PPM) after you feed so that you are aware of the actual pH in your root zone. Some nute lines will cause a salt buildup in the root zone which lowers your pH regardless of the pH of the feedings, so you want to manage that if it happens.

I’ll add a bit to this - cannabis is cannabis and all plants should be treated the same regardless of strain. The difference btw the strains is limited to cannabinoid (THC, CBD, terpines, and so on…) content, their unique terpine profiles, and to a lesser extent coloration at harvest and environmental tolerance, and a few other minor factors.

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Ph after nutes as mentioned. If use silica it goes in first. Mix good then nutes.

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Thank you @OGIncognito I am growing in soul so top feeding - Indoors.
I have done about 5 grows - learning as I go and doing seemingly well but this PH thing is going to be the death of me. lol.
I also tried filling my containers and getting it to the right PH but seems it raises again the longer it sits so having to take it day by day and the time is not always there - so I have to “borrow” it from my sleep hours. It’s been worth it so far I was just hoping I would find a few shortcuts somewhere along the way.

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The best shortcut you’re gonna find is doing it often and becoming more efficient at it as you get better.

Pay close attention to what your water ph is after you mix nutrients, how much ph up it takes to get your target of 6.5.

After doing this many many times you just do it and check it. Like making coffee in the morning while you’re still asleep lol.

Like Midwest said, pay close attention to runoff numbers… it don’t take long for those to get away from you and have some crispy looking leaves, I see ALOT of overfed plants come across the help section.

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Yeah it’s not recommended to premix and store for several days. Once you know how many ml it takes in PH down to get it at 6.5 checking the PH becomes rare. After mixing Jacks nutrients I know that it takes 6 ml of PH Down to get 5.8. I feel ya on the available hours :love_you_gesture:

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Question. Living soil ammendments or just nutrients? If living soil once the life is established ph is not an issue. Self regulates. If not then once you know how much ph down per gallon…2 caps for me at 9.7 from reservoir, it is fill jug and drop in whatever is normal. Ph range of 6.2-6.8 workable all the way. I like the middle but accept the full range. I dont flush ever. If I see a nutrient line that requires that i do not use it. Also using a top dress really allows you to turn into living soil. Add mucho life,some molasses"not a lot" to feed the critters. Once it establishes you keep the soil moist…not wet. The life will break down that top dress and make it readily available to be absorbed. The symbiotic relationship between the plant and soil life will regulate nute uptake and ph. Can go to no ph at all. I do not ph my living soil water even with my ph from tap so high.

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Liquid nutes will drive the PH of the water down. Check the Ph after mixing the nutes. You may be close without adding p h down. Good luck :v:

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Tagging along with the pH related discussion and education I have a follow-up question - I am on my second indoor run. First was ILGM Runtz fem. This is ILGM Apple Fritter auto. I have been watching my autos and seem to have diagnosed some pH issues based on leave spotting (using the diagnostic pictures from you guys). I have been fairly regularly monitoring pH and thought it was ok for soil. 6.2 - 6.5 going in. Run off around 7.0 -7.1. Upon checking calibration of my pH probe I’m now questioning my previous readings. I am using an inexpensive and have not kept it immersed in solution for the past 8 months. I am using General Hydroponics 7.0 cal solution but it was opened 8 months ago. Tops been on it mostly. My readings todays would not stabilize. They were swinging between 6 - 8 immersed in the cal solution. I wonder if my probe is shot or if teh cal solution went bad, or maybe both? Maybe immersing the probe a couple of days to see if it recovers? Thoughts regarding this tag along question- and @Mdowdy70 thanks for letting me but into your pH tag! Good luck and happy growing!!

I left the probe in the solution 10 minutes before trying a calibration but it wouldn’t stabilize

Apera and Bluelab both make quality pH meters. The less expensive pH meters don’t hold calibration very well.

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thanks much

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I had the same problem with my cheap pH meter. Worked great for about a month I am guessing. Then I didn’t keep it wet also and it went bad. I was diligent in checking but made the mistake of mixing and checking them letting it sit till the next day to use it. DON’T mix ahead. Anyway I ended up buying a Reed pH meter for about $100. It has been great but took weeks to fix all the problems bad pH had caused. Get a good one then buy the right fluid to calibrate it. Different pH meters use different pH fluid. So my advise would be take the time and check it every time before you put it on your plants. The plant will be happy and so will you.

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Thanks for the input. I am in process of looking for a good on amazon now. Apera and Bluelab were recommended by MidwestGuy. Looks like Apera is more within my price range. I relatively inexperienced on these issues so live and learn :slight_smile: Be safe and happy growing!

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But will now look at Reed too! Thx again!

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Hi @Storm
I use FFOF - no nutes yet as they aren’t needed right now. I use perlite at the bottom once they move from solo cups to fabric pots.
I know for 1 gallon of tap water it takes 6 ml oh down to drop me down to 6.5 - then I add the liquid nutes - FF Trio. I don’t think I have ever measured the run off. Ooops.
I keep hearing about too dressing but apparently I am only 4 years old because I just can’t figure out what - if and it when so I just haven’t. I have gotten lucky with some nice plants but I’m hoping for better this go round. Lol

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Make sure you buy a good ph meter.
Rule #2 after a good light

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Iv seen a lot of nice grows with autos using nothing but ocean forest start to finish.

Yes some might get a little hungry by the end but feeling a couple hungry leaves is much better then seeing one overfed and toasted from lockout.

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@ALSlammer no worries! Man I was going to get the Apple Fritter - took everything I had not to but I really wanted to make sure I got good control on the environment since fritter is prone to powdery mildew. Finally got my new ac for that room, along with the humidifier and dehumidifier and all hooked up to the controllers so if this run is good - it’s on!!!
Good luck with that run and show pics as you go please!!
I grabbed a meter at the local hydroponic store and after a year it finally went off cal by .5 and didn’t cost me my first born.

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