@dbrn32 , I’m looking to replace the potentiometers on my Szhlux lights with switches that don’t have steps, just smooth adjustment. They are listed as 1k, all the way to 1Mk. Do you know which I would need to replace the factory switches? I’m fine with soldering them in and everything, just out of my wheelhouse on the ratings…. Hoping you would know so I don’t have to take one apart just to order parts.
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Put a meter on the existing pot to determine the range needed for your replacement.
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OK, guess I’m taking one down to see. Thanks @Myfriendis410
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The switch might be marked 
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Sorry I’m a little late!
I’m not familiar with this light, but there’s a number of ways you can probably find what you need. The least intrusive would be to see if you can find identifying marks on driver and look for technical data and see if dimming options are listed. If it’s proprietary driver you can ask manufacturer, but I don’t know if they would provide the info. The others, as mentioned, would be to check the potentiometers for labels or test resistant with multimeter.
The meanwell drivers with external dimming leads are 0 ohms to 100k ohms = off to full power on drivers rated dim to off.
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Thanks for the info, it shouldn’t be an issue to change them as long as the values are same. I’ll have to pull the top off to see , everything is inside. Hopefully it’s listed on the switches. These are 0/40/100 position switches and I want to put in infinitely adjustable switches to fine tune my pods without moving the light. I have multi meters, easy enough to check ohms through switch. Appreciate it!
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Oh, so you probably just have different resistors that come in/out with each switch
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I’ll pull one and see, it’s just dials but only three click positions per dial.A simple potentiometer change will do it. Just gotta get the right one so I don’t lose power or burn it up….
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I would maybe change my approach then. Measure what the total resistance on the circuit is when set to run at 100% and you’ll know what you need to run there.
The bottom end may be a little more complicated as a lot of drivers aren’t rated to dim to zero. I’m guessing this may be why your lowest setting is 40% . But if you can find the scale you can probably work around. On the meanwells we would solder a 10k ohm resistor inline with the pot so even when the pot was zero the dimming circuit total resistant was 10k ohms. This would run the light at roughly 10% power, and they did fine.
Edit… I’ll just shut up before I make this more complicated lol. You have a 3 position pot that’s detentented at each position.
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Yes, but the new model lights are 0-100, no clicks. I didn’t think about the driver , they may have changed drivers instead of just adding the variable adjustment. I emailed them last year and suggested they change for more adjustment, mabey they listened. Bottom end isn’t so important to me, as long as it’s right from 50% and up…..I’ll try another email to them too.
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