Well I spent 2 hours trying find dry ice and failed.
So I used regular ice and a heat wraps and heat pad.
Only got about 2lb to move and I recovered 1.8lb so i lost a little bit.
But look at this giant cookie
Well I spent 2 hours trying find dry ice and failed.
So I used regular ice and a heat wraps and heat pad.
Only got about 2lb to move and I recovered 1.8lb so i lost a little bit.
But look at this giant cookie
Nice cookie Some grocery stores sell dry ice they usually keep it upfront close to customer service in a locked freezer for safety reasons. Where I live there’s Fry’s market and Safeway that carry it.
We can only get it here at the liquid air / welding supply stores. Best to call ahead first to make sure they have it in stock.
Well I found some today but holy crap is it expensive
I thought the closed loop was going to save me money because I wasn’t buying butane every time but I’m not to sure
I think butane may be cheaper then dry ice
Hopefully I just got way more then I need.
I’ve got the column loaded to run again when I get home, this time with dry ice.
How much did you get? Was it in chip/pellet form or blocks
I guess I’d call it blocks. 6"x6" squares roughly 2" or so thick.
It was $70 total and if I remember correctly, it was like $2.60 a pound.
Roughly 25 pounds worth if my math is correct.
So this 2.5cfm single stage harbor freight vacuum just isn’t cutting it I can’t get below -27 "hg and heres what the first run useing regular ice and heat is looking like at 72hours keeping the temperature set at 100f.
That means you probably have a leak somewhere.
When I operate my vacuum pump, it’ll run for a solid 8-10 minutes, and then the tone will change when there’s no more air left. I’m able to pull a -30hg.
Upgrading to a larger pump will pump it out faster, but if there’s a leak, it’ll still leak and never pull a full vacuum.
This was in my mind
Now how do I troubleshoot for leaks
I would recommend using an air compressor. Pressurize the system, to a certain pressure, and use soapy water to look for bubbles when sprayed on all of the gasket areas.
If it can hold a vacuum, it’ll hold pressure. I wouldn’t go over 20-30psi, not much pressure is needed to find a leak.
This was my intention testing method and it holds the -27 hg for hours (i turn the pump off when i go to work)
According to Chat GBT,
"It depends on a few factors, but in most cases, a 2.5 CFM vacuum pump should be able to pull a 5-gallon chamber down to -30 inHg (inches of mercury) if the pump has a deep enough ultimate vacuum rating.
Considerations:
Pump Ultimate Vacuum Rating – Most rotary vane vacuum pumps can reach 29.92 inHg (which is a near-perfect vacuum at sea level). If your pump has an ultimate vacuum rating of 25 microns (0.025 mmHg) or lower, it should be capable of getting very close to -30 inHg.
Chamber Size vs. CFM – A 5-gallon chamber (approximately 0.67 cubic feet) is relatively small compared to a 2.5 CFM pump. The pump should be able to evacuate the chamber quickly and reach maximum vacuum in a reasonable time."
I couldn’t find my exact model “single stage 2.5CFM”, but heres a 2-stage 3CFM same brand that rated at 22.5 microns which is below the 25 microns AI says is needed.
I’d assume my smaller single stage has a rating even lower then 22.5 microns.
The “test” of leaving it under vacuum doesn’t take the hose confections into consideration as I close the valve on the pot so I could have a leak in the hose maybe
Possibly, I had one. I replaced it.
The speed at which it pulls a vacuum doesn’t matter, it’s the very end, that takes the longest of evacuating all of the air out.
Try pulling a vacuum on different parts of the column, by shutting off valves, and this will section off the leaks where they’re coming from.
So i think you are correct my friend
I can see tiny bubbles at the condition to the pot.
Theres a bit of oil in the line just enough that I can clearly see teeny tiny bubbles moving.
You can see one there.
What is it that you have a hose clamp on
There should be no hose clamps anywhere in this set up.
Exactly stainless braided hoses only. Not the red and blue hoses with brass ends either. My vac only pulls -29 but I put mine under 50psi pressure test overnight before pulling a vacuum then I leave that for a few hours before packing dryice in the dewaxing column and packing the base in a bucket full of ice and dryice it then sits under vacuum while everything gets cold. Then I check the vacuum pressure again to make sure that the freeze didn’t cause a leak somehow. Then I add butane. I found leak once right before I ran it. It wasn’t a gasket but a bad hose that didn’t start leaking untill I put it in a bucket and packed in the ice. I had to pull it all out and repressurize it to find the leak.
The vacuum pump and chamber is what I was talking about right now.
However when pulling vacuum on the exterior, it is useing the same condition with hose clamps.
I had thought this could be a weak point, but it’s how it came
I used the braided stainless lines for the vacuum chamber also. Although it’s not critical to get down to a full vacuum when venting off the extract.
That’s good information man
I knew elevation play a role but i didn’t know how much.
I am roughly 1000ft above sea level so I lose 1"hg