Been a lurker of this site for a bit. Decided to make it official now that I am finally able to set-up my first grow and hoped you more seasoned electric lettuce cultivators would do the honor of critiquing my gear list before I start setting cash on fire.
My plan for my first grow is an indoor tent grow. 12 auto flower clones (something newbie friendly and
while eventually I’ll switch to seeds), each clone start to finish in a 7 gallon smart pot in Coast of Maine soil without additional nutrients until finishing with molasses. I’ll be staggering the 12 into two stages so I have provided a tent for both groups. Currently I am just concerned more with growing a high quality bud than producing huge yields while trying to go about a k.i.s.s. method.
Is this crazy?
I’ve been debating adding Co2 down the road but want to give it a go without a Co2 system until I’ve got a few batches in.
Below is the equipment I am looking at using. Any major gaps or flaws?
2-Spider Farmer SF-4000 LED Grow Light
1-GSI-1 Controller for DE pro Series Commercial growlight controller
1-AC Infinity, Duct Carbon Filter, Australian Charcoal
2- Cloud Line T6 Duct Fan with Temp and Humidity control
4- Grow Buds 6 inch Oscillating clip on fan
2- Gorrilla Grow Tent 4x8
12 seven gallon smart pots
Coast of Maine soil
molasses for finishing
One of the best pseudonyms I have heard for cannabis lol.
I’m new so idk, but are autoflower clones a thing? Since you can’t reveg them and they have their own biological clock so to speak, I’m unsure how you’d clone an auto…
Touche my friend! I tried to edit but I don’t have enough permission to edit my post apparently. Starting with newbie friendly clones and eventually moving to auto flower seeds
Personally I would stick with photoperiod plants as they are actually easier to grow than auto flowering plants. You can veg as long as you want so you can fill your expensive real estate.
I’d also recommend that you pick up a decent PH and TDS meter along with calibration and storage media.
Also going to have to supplement at some point so best go to school on nutrients.
Well you technically can clone them but… you need to clone before they flower and they wont get a chance to grow before they flip soooo… ??? Not much point.
The big misunderstanding many newer growers have is that autos are easier than photos… simply not true. They offer some advantage in the lighting department but other than that, more of a novelty than anything.
Ahhhh I see! Yeah it will take a slight bit of time to get used to the forum and gain permissions. You found the right place to gain information and reach out for help though brother.
I’m not an expert in any category by far. I only have one successful grow under my belt, (God it feels good to say that though!) one that I killed because I over watered the seedling, and one grow that was really healthy but turned out male.
One thing I noticed is you didn’t mention anything about what you will use to test pH or TDS/EC.
I recommend the Apera PH20 for pH and EC20 for EC/TDS.
I’m not familiar with that soil, but make sure you won’t need nutrients too!
I can personally second this statement. Autos can be more sensitive to nutrients, and you cannot control them the way you can with photos. You can keep a photo in veg for as long/short as you want. I’m going to make use of this phenomenon with my cannabonsai grow that I have started. In order to keep them short, I will be flipping to flower earlier than normal.
Literally the only thing you have to do is switch your light schedule. If someone is smart enough to go through the rigors of a grow, they are certainly smart enough to simply change a timer from 16 hours to 12 hours!
As for the light, Spider Farmer is a good cheaper brand but if you can/are willing, go for HLG lights. Don’t think that light will be enough to flower a 4x8 though. Even the data sheet says flowering footprint of 4x4. @dbrn32 is the resident light expert.
The soil I saw on a couple sites as being “the #1 soil for weed, no nutrients needed”. That being said I’ve never used it. I use Fox Farm for all my other plants but read it wouldn’t have enough nutrients to get all the way to harvest.
Really, if you want to get serious about it, and apparently you do growing 12 plants at a time, you should forget soil and learn about growing in coco at cocoforcannabis.com
Hello I was wondering if u could help me out with few questions I had my set up is almost exactly like yours if u could email me that would be amazing thank you
It my first time doing this I do have lot knowledge in marijuana and some knowledge in horticulture ect I got i bought CLOUDLINE T8, QUIET INLINE DUCT FAN SYSTEM WITH TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY CONTROLLER, 8-INCH
New Spider farmer SF4000 LED Grow Light With Dimmer Knob 2021 new version QB
New Spider farmer SF2000 LED Grow Light With Dimmer Knob full spectrum samsung diodes QB
Gorilla Grow Tent 5x9 also from here I got gorilla glue auto since it my first time at this what I read said I should use 11 to 13 gallon bucket I also was wondering wat the best soil to use and nutrients also is there a book I could find that could help me answer some of these questions
My thought was grouping the 6 plants under the light which advertises as rated for 5x5 area and having excess room for working and air circulation on the ends. I’ve never grown in a closed in area so this may have been ignorant thinking. @dirtydave
When picking lights its square footage and watts a 4x8 tent is 32 square feet that means you would need about 1000 watts of LED per tent some smarter people than me mite want to weigh in here but you may be better off doing a 1 tent grow of 8 to 10 plants with the two lights growing weed is work fun work but work but sometimes its better to start small and 1 4x8 is not small IMOP
And I have never been able to grow a plant in under 4 square foot per plant and even that is always crowded. At 32 square feet in 4x8 you might be able to fit 8, but I wouldn’t put more then 5 or 6 in a 4x8.
