I run my lights fairly low and close to the canopy until transition then crank em up. But you need the extra intensity due to dropping down to 12/12 and the plant’s requirements in that stage of the grow.
That should help: definitely want to be fully populated in the SCROG before flipping as plants will likely harden off right after the stretch. I like to fill every cell before transition:
Absolutely beautiful! I would love to achieve results like that but I’ll be happy just to make it to the finish line with live plants! 
@Myfriendis410 is it normal to have one plant slow down in growth? They’ve been mirroring each other the whole grow but the one on the left slowed down after they were fimmed.
FIM’ing can stall a plant out and is entirely dependent on the individual plant. Some could care less.
@Myfriendis410 Definitely got both ends of the spectrum here. Other than stalling out, there isn’t any other issues. Was hoping to flip in a week but I guess I’ll wait on her to get back in gear.
Update.
Flipped to flower on Christmas.
@Myfriendis410 , I took your advice and raised the PH level to 6 and have lowered the nutrient level. Still higher than what you recommended but
though. Everything is looking good. I had some issues with one of my projects so I’m having to travel during the week and come home on weekends. Thankfully my system is holding together. Talk about a nervous wreck!
Here’s some update pics. Still only able to visit my ladies on the weekend. Clearly in need of some trimming.
Well I’m still having to travel quite a bit. So I’m only able to visit the girls on the weekends. I have friend that’s learning with me come in and do some defoliation and check light height. I’ve been 2 weeks this time and these are pics before I drain water, sterilize the system and add fresh nutes. My bonus Autoflower seems to be getting close. Maybe 3 weeks I guess? I put up an Arlo camera so I can check in on them as well as give my buddy directions when he’s in the grow room
I’d be happy to hear any suggestions or “WTF you doing” criticism
GnG
These look great. I am starting a drip hydro grow and I am watering 3 or 4 times a day with an eye dropper. I want to begin auto dripping in a 15 minute off 45 minute drip schedule . When did you start automatically feeding it looks like you are deep water growing
I started germinated seeds in presoaked, PH’d rockwool cubes in the the system you see them in now. All I did was keep them under a humidity dome until their roots hit the water. I’d intermittently spray the inside of the dome with PH’d water. My system is a 70 gallon RDWC with manifold inside the tote that evenly disperses water around the inside edges of the tote using a 3100 Alpine water pump.
Thanks
So once the roots hit the water u removed the dome. and began your running nutrient water ?
Was there any time when the water was off?
Yes once the roots hit the water I removed the domes.
Not seeing any red flags! I have a camera in my flower tent too - although I upgraded my digs and haven’t moved the camera yet so I can’t check on the ladies throughout the day 
Yeah I had to do something. When I first started the grow, I was home everyday. I was at the door as soon as the lights came on and would spend a few hours checking out the system. When I travel I was making my wife go out and take pics and send. She was complaining because where I have them, she’d have to drive to the other side of the property to check on them.
@Graysin is it normal for the ph to change drift direction during flower? The whole veg cycle I had my ph controller set to ph up with alkaline. Now I’m in acid to keep the ph from drifting up.
Yes. I can’t say I ever paid much attention to which way my PH drifted but one thing I read in multiple places was that plant roots exude hormones (or something - I don’t remember the exact terminology) to alter the pH of their medium to help it absorb whatever nutrients it’s needing more of. If the pH is drifting up, it’s because she’s wanting more of the nutrients more readily available with the higher pH levels. This is why I allow my res pH to shift .2 one direction or the other before I course-correct it - she’s gonna keep fighting the pH til she gets what she wants (and in fact the pH will also naturally drift as she eats it, too).
I’m the worst hydro grower on the planet, all I have is soil pH charts, but it demonstrates the same basic premise. Potassium and phosphorus are much more readily available at higher pH levels, which is probably why it’s going up rather than down.
