Yellowing new growth only

Most cultures for hundreds of not thousands used traditional herbs for headache relief and many are still available.

Soil is buffered so no you won’t have any effect phing feed and water. I can’t go out side and pH my lawn that way, the soil buffer won’t allow it and some have a weird conception of how soil works if they do try.

The calcium in soil breaks down constantly scavenging up any excess hydrogen this keeping pH sweet. If we took the breakdown pH of a soil it’s probably over a few million ppm, the amount of acid it can neutralise is quite a lot just add lime to acid and wait, same in soil.

Reading runoff is bad because you are simply getting a small mix of soil, it’s buffer and whatever you ran through it, in no way is this the soils real ppm or pH which is why it’s bad practice.

pH is actually quite complicated in soil, we need to account for its constant breakdown and buffer. Why we don’t and the makers use an appropriate mix tried and tested for decades.

Now if someone is selling soil that needs ph’ing I’d question why since the makers know about lime and it’s simple additions.

Hydro there is none of this only water and root absorbtion needs the right pH or minerals are eternally bonded to other elements and not available for uptake. In soil these elements are freed by the calcium breaking hydrogen bonds and stuff making them available for uptake. Even roots adjust to facilitate uptake in soil.

No pH in soil and quit reading runoff.


Hey man you tried lol.

@Low @Budbrother @dbrn32


Not sure of the question? The light green could just be new fast growth, and the chlorophyll is still being produced and distributed. I’ve also had this happen when a light was being shut off without us knowing it for prolonged periods of time.

:stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: if it’s not living soil pH does need to be monitored and adjusted accordingly. That’s assuming it’s built correctly, and “cooked.” Keeping the plants in the appropriate ranges and you should get appropriate results. Most issues I see is with potted plants and pH values, or over fertilizing locking other nutrients out. Or not maintaining a healthy runoff, to keep the salts moving. Manufactures of soil do know what they put in their soils for sure. But what they can’t account for is what that soil goes through from bagging to counter to pot. Not all soil is healthy or ideal. I’ve gotten soils with pH as low as 3.5 and as high as 8. Neither one was appropriate for the plants of this hobby.

I’m mostly a coco grower, so hopefully someone else chimes in. I’ve left soil mostly because of the unpredictability of it. If I were to ever go back I’d go for living soil.



I would suggest living or not if they limed their soil it’s buffered and needs no ph’ing further.

You can deny this but how about all the non mj growers that do really well indoors and out with just plain bagged soil no pH amendment.

Some make it like there’s a big gap in the market for a buffering soil, there isn’t soils are buffered against pH change with a simple addition of lime.

Come on let’s look at the evidence and agree.


I’m not here to argue or anything of the sort. Lol. Just sharing my limited soil experience. When I worked the organic produce farms we didn’t do anything and had 100,000+ crops in ground. This topic isn’t important enough to me to go against recommended practices so everyone can agree. It’s not that serious.

At the end of the day everyone should just do what works for them.


A lot of really good and really bad info in this topic.

A “good” amended soil should buffer ph fairly well. That is saying it’s actually good, or our actions change the soil enough it no longer will buffer ph. Fox farms is notorious for being garbage in this department and coincidentally by in large the most popular soil among members here lol. Regardless of soil in use, how it’s used can/will impact the soils ability to buffer ph throughout a grow. So there is a huge separation in what should be and what most people end up with.

Silica is 100% unnecessary for healthy plants. But there are plenty of benefits silica can provide even though unnecessary. Most organic soils will contain enough silica that adding is unnecessary but adding small amounts also won’t hurt anything. This again subject to misuse just like everything else. I do kind of cringe when i see unhealthy plants and owner says they’ve been feeding calmag and silica. This is basically omitting all the stuff plants do need and replacing with the two things most people don’t need, assuming a proper base fertilizer is used.

Op’s soil is flushed to nearly nothing per the first post in this topic and ph trending low. Right, wrong, or indifferent lets keep this topic geared towards getting informed that will help them.


You won’t change a soils pH with a bit of pH up or down come on let’s not be silly.

If a soil looses it’s buffer you can’t save it with pH up or down either.

Soil Is forever degrading, why it uses a lime buffer because that forever degrades to counteract acidity.

People may think foxfarms needs pH ing but there’s plenty who grow well without so I’m not sure how the answer isn’t obvious. There were some bad batches a few years ago and they do change ingredients seasonally but their lime ratios are all on point.

Conversely soils with more lime than the standard ranges are rare. All seem to follow similar ratio recipes. We did a lot of soil science the last 50 years manufacturers getting it wrong would be beyond the basics of basic mistakes.


Well said dbrn32. I was going to comment on the silica part. I grow organic and still have my full bottle of Silica unopened. B-52 will help strengthen the roots and stalk also.


You don’t need to change the soil ph to run a successful grow and it doesn’t matter if the soil degrades naturally or by ones actions. This could be a bucket of perlite or rocks for that matter, the only thing that would matter is the solution added be in range for nutrient uptake. This soil isn’t buffering ph otherwise the runoff wouldn’t test below 6 and doing nothing per your suggestion won’t help op with his/her plants. Simply making sure any solution applied in this scenario is with optimal ph range will help ensure it’s plant available. Yes one could concede that adding lime would help this, but it would be weeks before it did any good.

You can spare me with the fox farms fan boy act too. They have the most inconsistent products in the market. It’s probably just a matter of them getting too big too quickly, but they can’t even keep their stuff consistent on the same skid let alone from season to season. The last time I bought bags of ocean forest received one that was literally all sticks and mulch.


You have a knack of dumbing it down expertly. I read a lot of your posts.
All of this technical stuff too much a hassle for my lifestyle why I grow organically with Gaia Green presently. Making a change to a different organic after Gaia runs out.
Don’t have to PH water reuse soil over mix 1/3 worm casting in add Gaia Green let it cook and then grow again. Every 3 or 4 weeks top dress with Gaia and add tap water after it sits long enough. Go from flower to bloom haven’t had to Epson salt for nitrogen deficiency yet but watch or it. Water with Recharge. I got conned into buying some silica (nephew) thought it was a waste now I know especially with what Gaia is made from.

Thanks Dude :green_heart:
Nice to have Dudes like you around who KNOW when :poop: goes bad and have calm EXPERT advice.

Thank you Sir. Have a Great Day.


That Gold looks good Bro. That was the High end stuff in the day before I had my first taste of Hawaiian Sensimilla.
Ordered some Photo Acapulco Gold other day from Seedsman looking forward to it. Love your KISS mentality.

PS. Still love my HLG lighting.

Soil has such a capacity that it does buffer the solution quite easily and quickly. I mean we talk about soils cation exchange capacity as the overriding factor here.

Then if you try to buffer anything organic your wasting your time because it’s potential acidity is not known until it’s broken down which means out of the bottle you won’t get a true reading.

You talked on nutritional availability at certain pH, well soil cation exchange is the answer there, a root simply only need donate an ion and that mineral is now freely available without the right pH.

Fox farms stuff in use isn’t organic and if the cation exchange was working properly one wouldn’t be experiencing issues. Ph is one of several items that can negatively effect cation exchange capacity. So just like it could be the solution you’re explaining, it could be the problem just as easily. And more than likely is the reason if/when there are nutrient uptake issues.

You clearly have some knowledge on the subject, which is great. But there are holes in just about everything you’re posting. If you have something constructive to post for op it would be a great time to share that or move along. There isn’t a strong need for off topic discussions that are only somewhat accurate.


Thanks. I got her to bounce back with some nutes and a little higher PH. THANKS to everyone for the post from both sides of the issue.


I will say on other threads I have knocked the PH meter too. But that’s only for Organic soil that I create and balance out. I wouldn’t use the PH meter to measure runoff, for the same reason RHarris is somewhat stating. It just sends you down a rabbit hole of problems. Instead I lean to check and read problems ahead of time.The reason we notice these things is because the plant is telling you something is up. This happens with everyone if they are using the meter or not. Obviously… Cause it sounds like the majority do.

But growing in supersoil that I created, there is no quick fix, there is time when growing photoperiods, but with autos you do not get that luxury. So I’ve had to learn to get quick judgments on my own grow. Only because I know what I put in the soil and what’s lacking. So the meters really does me no good. I do use the stem meters a lot because I know what’s in the soil already so I have learned how to read it by sticking it in the soil and I have one that measures nutrients, no it will not tell you what you are missing, but when I do top dressing soil separately. I know what nutrients it’s measuring out. Same for veg nutrients. I don’t add all the extra in during feed, just ph’ed water.

Then I top dress twice. Once 2 weeks before flower. Then again 2 weeks into flower adding in micros in the form of booster. This is the only time I use anything other than regular water. Then I go back to just ph’ed water week 7. Does the meter accurately measure runoff, I say no if you are growing organic, if you are doing Coco/perlite for a medium I do feel it is necessary. On another note why grow in an organic medium, if you still plan to shove all the extra money into nutrients. If you need all the extra then something is wrong with your soil in my opinion.

I agree Fox Farms is crap. They even tell you that their measurements are off for nutrients, and their soil is inconsistent and crap. Learn how to build your own soil. I also recommend that you have a bin with the ingredients you will need for top dress done as soon as you start your grow. This way you can keep the bloom ingredients where you need them. I am not a professional, me and Dbrn jave had a few disagreements on a process or two. But regardless I respect his knowledge and he has been right wayyy more time then off. I do agree that RHarris has said some things that had me scratching my head and I also agree with some things he said.

But what Dbrn was trying to tell you RHarris is your orginal measurements should be precise of you are feeding, because the roots are pulling the ph’ed feed almost instantly, all the salts that were built up will wash down. If those salts and oter readings are high. Your root system may not be pulling everything in. If it wahses too low you would need to increase. I always say, if you can do autos in your organic soil all the way through, you have found your soil balance. So now you can determine if it’s lights, temp, humidity, ect.

During this grow I only used Ph’ed water until second week of flower. I top dressed for flower during week 3 since they are autos. For photos I do it one week before flipping to flower then on both I do it again in the second week of flower. The second top dress I star with boosters. I use

Bud Candy
Big Bud till week 6 and B-52

Week 6, I swith to Overdrive B-52, and bud candy up to the end of week 7. From there I just returned to water no longer ph’ed because I am hoping to lock-up the roots. Or I flush. But I am experimenting with the flush, personally I am liking it because in my opinion and everyone else’s says I’m crazy, but after the flust with Flawless finish, my trichomes seems to redden a little faster. But it could be wishful thinking on my end. But hey it makes me feel better😅

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I suspect one of the other posters may be right about light stress from the leaves looking a little twisty. Definitely a little stressed. Also the lower leaves are fairly dark and when they claw or twist it can also be excess nitrogen (dark clawing leaves suggest too much nitrogen). But they aren’t clawing very much yet, just a little, and it could be from light.

Many strains do have very lime green coloring with new growth, it is usually lighter colored. As it builds up chlorophyll it gets darker.

I have noticed Fox Farm soil plants do this quite strongly. Yellowing new growth can also be caused by iron deficiency. However, keep in mind a plant deficiency is ultimately in the PLANT and not necessarily the soil. Sometimes it is both. But iron deficiency may also be caused by excess phosphorus, as excess phosphorus can lock out iron. In cases like this, adding more iron might not solve the problem, and if you keep adding iron repeatedly thinking it keeps needing more you may create a whole new set of problems. Fox Farm Ocean Forest has an NPK of 0.3 - 0.45 - 0.05, so the phosphorus is the strongest of all three elements. It is low in potassium so it isn’t a bad idea to add some kelp.

Also I have always been taught to thoroughly mix the soil. I do tend to work some extra compost into the top inch or two but overall having multiple layers of different soil may frustrate the plant. If I did layer it, I would put ocean forest on top as it is strong in nutrients, that way the nutes go downward into the weaker happy frog rather than exiting the soil.

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Like my mother always said…“Well son, theres one in every group.”
You sir, are the one. Smh

What you just did is even worse. I have no problem with Harris but this is revealing.

Don’t point people out and that’s dirty name-callin even if it’s an insinuation.

@moderators can we have this and that removed because it tags a person specifically in an attempt to insult.

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Thanks man :grin: