Twelve1’s Journal: Autoflowers in Soil with Grow Dots

Thanks, good idea.
My biggest thing with this, and it’s going to sound silly because I’m intentionally growing in 1-gallon bags, is that I want to give them the optimal amount of soil; if I plant them deeper in the bag, then the bag is effectively smaller. :upside_down_face: If I plant them too shallow in the bag, then they’ll have less soil for their lower stems.

Sprouting them in solo cups would help alleviate this, it seems.

Though, the solo route would stress me to think that I might stress them with transplant shock or something, and also I want to keep things simple.

In the end, with my current odd-ish growing style, it doesn’t matter too much, it seems. Too often, I think that I over-think things. :crazy_face: :grin:

I’ll be adding soil to them soon, though.

On a completely different topic, this was on my YouTube homepage, for some weird reason. :joy:
:rofl:

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I use these and plant them right into their forever homes ,put a few holes in bottom and side ,once these are buried and getting wet roots grow right through them .
Plants have no idea what you did
:rofl::rofl:

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Hey this is my first time with autoflower and I’m just curious if it’s looking good or should I know something more thanks for any replies haha my first time using this also so… sorry to bother just new. [1000000926] [1000000928] [1000000930] [1000000927]

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When you upload images there’s a small progress bar near the bottom right side let it get to 100 percent before hitting reply .

Try again so we can see the images
And welcome to @Twelve1 journal lol and the forum

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I clicked on them and was able to see them my bad as o didn’t know that worked ,
They look fine to me keep on keeping on !

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Okay thank you so much I’m trying not to
Mess up my first grow they are still in veg but I think I’m noticing some early why pistols not sure





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Autos usually will show sex much earlier it’s normal

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I like the solo cup method myself… I’ve never had problem with transplant shock… I also use larger pots though I guess but a little myckos? Has always worked when I transplant mine :man_shrugging:

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Sorry to bother again haha but by the pictures would you have any idea when I should switch to 12/12 I’m doing 18/6 right now and I know it’s auto but I just decided to take that route thanks in advance.

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I would advise that you don’t switch to 12/12
Autos flower by age not by a light cycle ,that being said they do best with more /longer light

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Ok thank you so 24/0 is okay correct? Thanks for the help btw

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I’ve never grown in 24/0 but have read many people that do ,some plants have no issues and some do ,so if you go that route just keep your eyes on it .
And no problem at all if I’m on I’m always willing to help

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Hi @Mookie28 ! :wave:

Thanks @Lacewing for helping Mookie, and me!

Others please also chime in. Yes, some folks do grow autos on a 24/0 light schedule the whole grow, and it seems fine. There’s a lot of consensus that 4-6 hours of darkness is optimal. So, really it’s up to you. See what others do, see what works for you. In the winter, I keep my seedlings on 24/0 for the first couple-ish weeks, then I gradually give them more nap time, then I have them on an 18/6. Maybe the gradual thing isn’t necessary, though, lol.

Late flower, some plants want less light, so keep that in mind. One of my last plants started foxtailing a lot near the end, which can stress them.

Lacewing’s advice is good, to watch them more carefully if you do 24/0, it could stress some plants.

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I’ve decided to do 20/4 and see how that goes from what I read that should be good once again thanks for helping a novice grower out!

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Hey @Twelve1 and @Caligurl :wave:t2: thanks for the support! I’m hopefully getting the hang of this due to this forum! Ha and can’t thank enough @Lacewing I would friend you but I have little to no knowledge on that haha

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Mookie, I just tagged you over on @Lacewing 's journal.

You’re very welcome for the support! I don’t have much varied experience, but I’m glad to help whenever I can.

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This could be what happened to one of my autos I had two diff. strains under 24 hrs in beginning (first 3-4 weeks If I remember)but I dimmed them for 7 hrs a night to 50% . Then I went to 20/4. after about 3 -4 weeks as I said above.
Now here’s my current problem that I’ve yet to figure out, One of them (the F1 Epsilon) is doing fine, ready to pull after60 days, right on time.
The other is a Royal Gorilla auto a (10-13 weeker) and it started stretching like a mad NBA player ,long internodal spacing, just pistils and hardly any leaf or ( sacs , the little things that puff up when ripening. Don’t know proper name (anyone help)… but everysingle bud site is elongated stem crap. Soooo , I just the other day figured to switch it to 12/12 and yes auto… In hopes it may find which way it needs to go (to flower hopefully!) :>
I can only think it didn’t like the 24 hrs… or the switch to 20/4.
I thinking she thought the drop to 20 hrs would/should be followed by incremental decreases (as in nature) and maybe just got stuck in the STRETCH mode. @Mookie28
Any thoughts @Twelve1 , @Lacewing , @Low @kaptain3d I’ll call all of them good growers! LOL! :sunglasses: :face_with_monocle:

Edit
I was playing with longer time on due to having so-so lights 100w x 2 , in a 3x3 That’s the ONLY reason I would mess around with 24 hrs after seeing this. But I’m sure others have done it successfully.
So I will personally , next time, either go 20/4 , or 18/6 and just leave them where ever I decide to start them on.

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Calyx, they can swell at any point. Love buds that are completely composed of calyx clusters and very little leaf matter. :drooling_face:

Ruderalis?

In my experience the light schedule doesn’t matter with plant health, as long as you aren’t exceeding the daily light integral or DLI. They technically don’t need a dark period to grow, and they don’t need to rest. It’s not about wattage it’s about ppfd/umol and its intensity/coverage. Too much can stress a plant out. They will twist, and try to hide if the intensity increases too fast.

IMO it is important to have a light meter or some way to measure the light intensity when playing with prolonged periods of light commonly associated with auto flowers.

Generally when I want to change light schedule, I just do. I’ve tried the gradual, I’ve tried just jumping. Pretty much the same results.

Environment, pH, appropriate lighting, and appropriate nutrients will get anyone some fire bud. Keep it simple, keep it in check. Another thing to consider is your watering schedule, plants actually do like habitual practice and they come to rely on that. Not necessarily frequency just consistent timing when it takes place. So if that’s not consistent the plant might be changing its demand around guessing when it will receive next. Time of day matters. Ive seen patterns when playing with feed in high frequency Fertigation, and salt levels to vary depending on when they get fed or if I change the schedule. Interesting, and it seems to trend that way. Feedings at mid to end of day leaves more salt in the medium because they don’t really consume during lights out. So morning feed (after lights on) vs end of day feed (lights out) have 2 very different impacts on the medium.

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CHEESE & RICE!!! SHE’S LOADED!!!
:cold_face: :facepunch: :fire: :star2: :star_struck:

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Yeah I don’t know what caused this to happen . @Low , They both got fed same until this week . And I don’t know .
I know I won’t f with my light cycle next grow tho! ;> These auto’s !
I ‘m a thinkin’ this one stretcher RG , may not have Enough of the Ruderalis Green Jeans …LOL!??

That’s them Calyx! TY!

No you got it with Calyx!! TY! :grinning:

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