My pleasure Growmie! I had a lot of help from some great farmers on this site 
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It’s good we have this site.
Honestly I didn’t think I’d need it too much as I figured this wouldn’t be much different than growing veggies which I’ve done for many years. Turns out I was a bit wrong… LOL.
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Same here, tried 2 indoor grows before joining the community. Wow was my way of thinking and growing out there in left field. After I understood and got PH, nutrients, lighting and environmental conditions in check my grows improved tremendously
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Any advice on where one can get a good thorough education on how to adjust specific nutrients?
All I typically see is “just follow the instructions on the bag”. Wherein the bag typically has instructions for new plantings or square footage.
That and trying to learn what ferts are needed (ie: should I use that 4-8-4 mix or that 4-9-3 mix?)
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Several good sites out there and I like grow weed easy dot com. I stay away from most general all purpose fertilizer and settled on jacks 321 as it provides a well balanced ratio of NPK from start to finish. Cannabis requires a higher concentration of nitrogen in the veg stage with an increase of potassium and phosphorus during the flowering stage. For the nutrients you have I would be using the 4-8-4 and the 0-10-10. These 2 will have the increased PK and still feed the needed nitrogen
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Like the others have said. IMO you have another month to go.
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I thought the same thing. In most ways it comes down to good practices and providing the environment and conditions for them to grow best. The same I do for my veggies. I plant peas and leaf crops as early as I can work the soil knowing they do best with cooler temps.
I don’t know if cannabis can still be considered a weed. It is strong and can recover from a lot of things but for it to do its best, it does need more attention than sticking it in dirt and watering it.
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Alright, so now that I have that pH pen on the way I need to make sure I understand and will be doing this correctly on the next watering.
So, so I just pH my water to 6.5, take a tds reading, water and take both readings again as the water drains out?
Any opinion if I should add any ferts or supplements to this next watering at all?
@OGIncognito, thanks for the recomendation on the site and fert plan.
@Deepsix you really think it still has a month? I was thinking maybe one, most likely two and possibly three.
@beardless I hear that. We’ve already begun Seed starting veggies and have peas and onions in, hoping we don’t get a late hard freeze. You’d think a basic “ragweed” type plant would be super simple for a half decent flower production, but no… 
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I would start with straight water at 6.5, pour it in slowly and let about a cup run out the bottom then catch a sample and test the PH and PPMs. Once we know those numbers we can establish the next feeding PPMs and PH. When I grew in soil I set a target at 900-1000 PPMS and 6.5 on the PH. Soil also likes a wet to dry cycle. If you plan on this being an organic grow we can adjust the feeding and or watering to maintain a damp medium but think to establish a base line run off is needed
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Cool, can and will do!
Lights come back on in about 4 hours. So I’ll post up my readings once I have them.
Thank you for all the input. It’s very generous of you to give so much of your time on here.
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Is the 2 bottle nutrients organic? I couldn’t tell but seems like it’s synthetic? If that’s the case I would suggest run off on feeding/watering days
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Referring to the Alaska nutrients?
No, not organic unfortunately due to the phosphoric acid in them. But I had them on hand and needed a quick acting P & K when I got back home from being away for a couple weeks.
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Excellent just checking before suggesting feeding and watering to run off
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Ok, so here’s what we got.
I used a freshly calibrated Apera PH20.
Tap water from tap registered 8.7 pH
I pH’d down with General Hydroponics PH Down Buffer to 6.5pH with a ppm/tds of 149.
Out water from the plant of the LEFT came out at a pH of 5.7 and a ppm of 278 with “x10” flashing (which I assume can not be good).
Out water from the plant on the RIGHT came out at a pH of 5.6 and a ppm of 202 with “x10” flashing as well.
What this means exactly, I have no idea. But I think and hope I’m about to get educated…
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I’d look into Foop fertilizer if you are trying for organic.
This is my first grow, as well. Your ppm are low. Plant likely take higher ppm when organic. Mine were drinking over 3,000 ppm for awhile without issue. I’m quite a bit lower now. Two of my 11 plants are autos.
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FYI, I have high ph RO water that I use and after adding the acidic Foop Nutes, the ph is always right around where I need it.
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Your runoff numbers may seem a little bit low, but it is your soil. Fox Farms is Pete based and the pH always tanks as the organic components of the soil start to break down. That’s kind of a known problem with Happy Frog and ocean Forest soils. I’ve dealt with this myself, I’m a dirt farmer, and always growing organic soils. I always set my pH closer to 6.8 or 7.0 knowing that it’s going to drop after I feed the plants. In my mind I feel like I am at least getting the pH to swing in the entire range of where the plant take nutrients. If I get a chance I will touch on this a little bit later, right now I have to get ready for work.
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So, where should those numbers be?
Upon some light research I’m assuming the ppm should be similar to what the water going in is at. Right?
It appears to me there is excess nutrients?
If that’s the case why are my plants looking poor? Unless it’s causing a lockout?
This is all confusing and so much conflicting info out there and so many grow styles to sort through it all.
Btw @OGIncognito Happy Birthday! 
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I haven’t looked into organic much but I’ve been curious about the always damp part of it. If cannabis likes a good wet/dry cycle and giving it the dry cycle prevents root rot and disease, how is it not an issue with organic or living soils?
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You dont need to flush if ur using organics dry amendments just water until run off
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