Do you have a recommendation for a PAR meter? I’m looking on Amazon at a couple now.
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@T-ray, I wish I could help you in that department but it’s something I’ve never had. I tried the photon app but deleted it after I stuck it under the light one time 
. I judge par and DLI by what their leaves look like at what time of the day. I guess I’m the awkward one around here who don’t use it or never check runoff or did a slurry test.
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Using Pantom Phot-bio off amazon.
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That’s a lot cheaper than a PAR meter 
I’m a tool junkie; it’s hard for me to pass one up. I once bought a Stihl Chainsaw for a weekend’s worth of work.
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Thanks bent. I’ll go check it out
I’ve been trying to justify the cost of an apogee, but I think I’ll have to do some research and settle for something a little cheaper.
Nah. We ride the same train man. Dirt. Water. Light. Food.
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Soo, I woke up, make a coffee and go to check the girls and found that one girl have some problems, curling leaves upward and yellowing
Temp is 86 and humidity 55%, run off numbers are available only for ph which is 6.8… not sure if this heat or light related problem due to temps in tent or light too close to canopy (12 inch currently). For now I reduced light output from 270w to 220, any advice @Storm @Gl1tch?
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Looks kinda mag light. Some epsom salt…about 2 tblspn each plant. Mix in top layer. Water. Basic first fix. Leaves are getting pale in between veins. You are far in and not a lot to be done in time frame left. Humidity is fine. Temps COULD be lower but I have run to finish hotter. Possible calcium light with the spots. Calmag covers both nutrients. Ph is fine. Some nutrient lines require calmag supplements. Go ahead and bring light to 18-20" and fire it up. All the way. Flowering plants love heavy light. Turn back down a bit last week. Just my thoughts on how i handle this. Been here before. Stick with what your nutrient line says on feeding. No additions. Looking good for end run.
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Tnx @Storm,well I have Calmag but never use it, water here is really heavy, about 20dH so I didn’t think it’s necessary, but will add some with next watering. Regarding lights, that’s a problem coz don’t have any more vertical space…
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I dont expect light burn from 270w. Keep it fired up for the flowers. If cant raise it just watch canopy heat from the light. If ok just keep on trucking at 270. If hot at canopy then back off 10% or so i would suggest. If can lower lung room temp that will translate to the tent.
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I do see bit of heat stress and probably low Ca, but I usually find that Ca problems often come from a lack of uptake rather than a lack of Ca itself. Watering with hard water can make those issues worse. As the water dries the bicarbonates in the water combine with the Ca and Mg ions in the soil to form carbonates which ruin soil structure and and are completely unusable to plants. You may need to leech the carbonates out of the soil before feeding any additional Ca. Often times you can foliar feed as a band aid while you fix the root issue, but it’s a little late in flower to do that this time.
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I use Advanced Nutrients. It takes a lot of work out for me. And really, you wanna back down in those nutes if causing tip burn. Really, with any bite you wanna use slightly less than recommended. Stay away from fox farm unless you growing tomatoes and peppers. I’m impressed with Advanced Nutrients. I used General Hydroponics too. Still, not those firm hard dense buds. But it’s ON now! I’m gonna take some shots tomorrow and post what I’m doing. I got controlled temp too in both. That helps tremendously. And I’m running some rather cheap $120 1000W lights. I veg at about 300 to 400 and when I flower I crank it up. But I am thinking about another couple lights. These LEDs are new to me really. I use to run grow houses with 300 girls at any given time. Using 1000W HPS. I’m still learning these tents and LEDs both still and I been piddling with it here for the last 2 years. They look healthy brother. Keep up the gro-op mate. Cheers
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LED light’s are a whole different animal than HPS or MH plasma lamps. They can be designed to give off a much broader spectrum as well as being more efficient, cooler running and longer lasting. For instance, the 300w FC-E3000 @littleCactus is using is perfectly capable of flowering 2x2 or even 3x3 area with an excellent yield and great density.
@littleCactus I forgot to mention earlier That you can pull off 12" with that light, but at 86 degrees and 55% RH is might be a little rough on the plant. Every bit you can get will help. Are you still using the the stock mounting wires that come with the light? If so you can get another 6" or so by attaching directly to the eye bolts with 4 points instead of using the wires.
This
Instead of this
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Raised output to 250w/300, looks like it’s generating less heat…
Despite the look of top bud it fills nicely, although I see more yellow leaves
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I got Biobizz CalMag, should I do some foliar feeding? I suppose that should be done when lights are off?
Regarding water, yes that can be issue too, but I guess that is mainly my fault with feeding (too much)
Learning something new every day
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Well, there is no wires anymore, light is mounted directly to the top of the tent to utilize every inch available. Temps today are little better, about 82F
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I wouldn’t. At this stage in the game spraying the plants is a last resort due to mold concerns. I would leech then feed with your normal nutes + the cal mag.
Just an update, entered at week 11 and things looking good. Regarding problems from my previous posts, I find out that my biggest problem is light or to be more precise distance to canopy, so ended up with 190w and monitoring girls. They responded very well to the change but unfortunately some damage where made resulting in burn leaves and slower growth of the buds, but not all is lost, and more important lesson learned
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