thanks
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Yes! I have the chiller set to 65 but generally stays around 66-67. I wasn’t as worried about the lower leaves but the ones up top getting colored like that is what made me ask. Any reason they’re doing this?
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I’em sorry to differ but you do have a problem.
YOUR PLANT = Phosphrus Deficiency. HERE ARE A COUPLE OF PIC’S Below the pic’s is what tou need to do.
Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most
important parts of Phosphorus is:
It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant and is
one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate
seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large
amounts, it is classified as
a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants
reproductive stages. Without this
element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper
levels of Phosphorus.
When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size
of your plants. Not enough
causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of
Phosphorus causes slow growths
in leaves that may or majhy not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or
half of the leaves can be
brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl
up in the air a bit. Fan leaves
will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue
color to them. Sometimes the
stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus
deficiency. This isn’t a
sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show
the red petioles and stems
from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the
fan leaves is a good sign
of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous
absorption very troublesome
for plants.
Many people get a Pho-phorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the
ends of the leaves look like
a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the
leaves and has a glass like
feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency
are: Older Leaves, Whole
plant, Petioles.
Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc,
potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is
most common under excessive phosphorus conditions,
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates
when concentrated and combined with calcium
Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.
Soil
Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend
having a ph of over 7.0 in soil)
Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels
of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having
a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil
less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything
out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.
Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn’t be tolerated.
Any chemical or organic
fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you
have a phosphorus
deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose
20-20-20 is a good mix.
Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing
at ½ strength when using
chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus
supplements are: Bone meal,
which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where
bone/blood meal is slow
acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which
is fast absorption, Worm
castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption,
Soft Rock Phosphate, which
is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption.
Crabshell, which is slow
absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.
Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.
Chemical
Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums
`Organic
Dr. Hornby’s Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
+
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)
Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new
growth will appear normal.
Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when
using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water
as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use
10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.
Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor
your ph when using those.
Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are
all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
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I did just flush my water today 3x (1hr ago) and didn’t put any nutes in… they’re just in pH’d water for the day. Tomorrow I was going to make any changes, if needed, to nutrients when I add them. My stems have been turning dark red/purple from new growth down and then now the leaf problems.
I am at PPM of 1120 already and using Lucas Formula with Liquid KoolBloom as a small boost which is 0-10-10. I’m just confused as how I have the deficiency. My res is holding 7/7.5 gallons of water and if you look above at my nutrients, I am giving about 7ml/14ml to gallon of Micro/Bloom. I can up it to 10ml Micro per gallon and 20ml Bloom per gallon…
@Myfriendis410 what do you think about this?
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The thing about media is a deficiency can look like an excess etc. I would be very cautious of the Liquid Kool Bloom and believe you are at about the right value for your nutrient solution. 1,100 ppm is fine for most plants. You may have to up your numbers but I would suggest you see what your plant does before doing anything drastic. Running straight water for a day or two is fine and can act as a reset. High intensity lights can mean you should run a little cal mag too. @MattyBear runs cal mag to within about 3 weeks of harvest, for example.
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I didn’t notice any problems until I tried adding it in last week actually which is why I’m flushing and just going to go to 60/120 M/B and see how that does without it. I added in the Liquid Kool as I started noticing the red stems so I thought a little boost would be okay just to get me to the 1100. I do use a little Calimag, only about 10ml. Do you think that’s a fair amount in a 7 gallon res?
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I typically use 5 ml of calmag per gallon, so I’d say you’re a little light on the calmag. You should probably be between 25-35ml of calmag for a 7 gallon res 
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I’ll bump it up to 20/25 and see how that does first. I just don’t want to over do it as the GH nutes have some Calimag in them already.
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Another quick question while I have you guys here. My PPMs vary whether I have my chiller pump on/off. I only turn it off when emptying and filling back up but when she’s on, the PPMS vary by about 200 based off what I put in when it wasn’t running. Which PPM should I go by? For instance, this past feeding I had 1120 PPM with my pump off and air stones on, but it dropped to 950 when I flipped it back on. Maybe this could be part of the issue of a possible phosphorus deficiency.
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The word I’d give you on setting a level of solids in a nutrient solution is: any number you get is just an approximation. The meters we use generally do a good job but the device is measuring the electrical conductivity of an aqueous solution and converting into a rational number for our use. Unfortunately it’s more like an “about that much” than it is a precise number. Sugar for instance will not read in water as it’s non conductive. Try it sometime. The only real way to determine a solution concentration is to evaporate out all of the water and weighing the solids remaining. I don’t really know why you get variance other than maybe the chilled water skews the reading somewhat?
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Well the water isn’t chilled when I first turn it on since I just filled it up and added nutes. Takes an hour or two to chill. This is happening within 30 seconds of turning the water pump on. The only thing I’m thinking is the chiller has about 1/2 or a gallon of water in it that was perhaps untreated?
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I’m sure you have solution stored in lines and within chiller.
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Oh yes, no doubt… but when I first fill it up the chiller isn’t on so it’s got whatever I had before emptying… which by that point is straight water usually or low ppm solution since they’ve been drinking 1-1.5 gallons a day and I run the same solution for a week.
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Maybe try letting stand for 30-40min after mixing then test again and see if you’re seeing same thing before you add to system
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I’ve noticed only Blue’s leaves are doing this while Orange is normal but has a little nute burn and reddening of the stems.
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I only give mine 5ml of koolbloom to the gallon. 20ml might be too much. Why were you giving them so much? Hope you get them happy again. You’ve grown some pretty girls and I’m sure you’ll get things figured out.
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Sorry, I think you misunderstood lol. I gave a total of 20ml for a 7.5 gallon reservoir. That would equal about 2.5ml per gallon, half of what you use.
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My bad. I wasn’t thinking straight. Lol
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Update!
Changing the nutes seemed to have worked as I’m no loner noticing any more progression on the leaves from the issue I was having before! These girls are getting stinky though 
Going through about 1.5g a day!
I’m running 20ml ArmorSi, 15ml Hydroguard, 20ml Calimag, 60ml Micro, 120ml Bloom.
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Sweet! Beautiful garden.
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