And do you know any one that is running em on here?
1700 umols/s per fixture, and space is 6.62 m². Plug a fixture in until you reach a desired light density. There was a guy running journal with smaller fluence light, 2p maybe? But I haven’t seen him around in a while.
Mind=Blown I can just link this to ppl instead of tagging @dbrn32
Right here
I have a 4 x 4 grow room right now I have two fixtures that has four bulbs each they are T5 HO bulbs is this enough lighting or should I get another one
I posted in your other topic. You could probably veg ok with with the two t5 fixtures, but you’ll want more light to flower a 4x4.
From growerslights? I have heard of long lead times due to parts being out of stock. But I don’t remember hearing anything like that. You should get shipping confirmation with tracking number, I would follow that.
@Banksmoney6485 this would be the best thread to post your lighting questions to dbrn32. Describe the space you want to light, color spectrum, (veg or flower or both) 2700K-3500K will work from seed to harvest.
You said 2-300 watts?
There are lots of strip light options.
Another shout out to dbrn32. I’m 2weeks out from what looks like amazingness. My nute system gets a lot of credit, but the system requires a great environment and quality light. QB grow hard hard nugs. @500watts for the room currently.
Number 1 tip for noobs (if you don’t need heat) move the drivers out of the tent/room. If the tent
Is in a bedroom and that heats up that room too much move them into another room if possible. Environment 1st. Otherwise almost every deficiencies you find and fight may be temp/humidity.
I’m telling you right now With QB or any
Of these intense lights Cal Mg will be your deficiency. Up it
From day one and you’ll be so happy.
Very very nice @Newgrwr2018… that gets a big Quagmire - giggity giggity - oh yeahhh !!!
Looks great dude, nice work!
At what distance do you have to worry about voltage drop on the DC side of the driver? @dbrn32. Just wondering if that comes into play. thx
Depends on wire size. You can search for voltage drop calculator in your browser, some easier to use than others.
It’s been a year since you helped me with my build @dbrn32
https://ilgmforum.com/t/lets-talk-diy-lights/13186/3718?u=dunnitagain
I have three grows under this setup and I am greatly satisfied with the outcomes, a thousand thanks is not enough. You may not remember but I had another setup I was putting together for my seedling and clones space. To recap, I had two extra QB120 (4000k) boards that I connected to a HLG-60H-24 driver to put in that space. I’ve rearranged things and moved this configuration into a separate container.
My question is, since the HLG driver is non-dimming, is it possible to place a 100k pot inline with the output (+) line to create a dimming function? Or should I purchase another driver capable of dimming (i.e. 24B)?
Driver should have a little rubber plug which removed accesses a phillips head screw: potentiometer for dimming. I use mine along with a “kill a watt” to set the demand.
Thanks for the response and yes some driver do have that type of dimming function. Those are designated with an “A” at the end of their model (i.e. HLG-60H-24A). Mine however is blank and does not include that feature. They also make one that is designated “B”, which has separate leads to connect a pot. The HLG-60H-24 only two power output leads with no dimming function.
The way the driver dims is not to reduce dc voltage but to control the duration of the output. I don’t think a pot on the output will work, unfortunately.
I kind of figured that would be the answer, was thinking I might get lucky and be possible. Looks like I’m going shopping! Thanks for your response.
He’s got you covered. The dimming drivers manipulate current not voltage. The problem with eating up some of the voltage like with a pot is that it will cause leds to blink and then just not turn on at all if much lower than needed.
Super stoked to hear you are happy with the lights though. I was thinking if you’re running moth boards on that driver they’re only running at about 1 amp per board. That’s going to land you 25-30 watts, or about half power from the way we would typically power a 120 board. Do you really need to run less than that?
If you do, I would probably just get a driver to power them up to around 2.1 amps or so. Then use b dimming driver.