@Myfriendis410 So I couldn’t sleep at all last night. I woke up twice with nightmares of all my plants dying so I said, forget it, and got up and did a 25% perlite / 75% Roots Organic Original combination. Made the holes and watered the holes with 1 cup of water then placed the plant in, covered it up nicely and added some soil on top. I then watered them with another 4 cups of water evenly. I did this with all of them although I planted that one that was stretching a bit deeper. No water came out the bottom but I didn’t think it needed to since I’m not trying to over water them and the plants will not need water in the dirt anywhere near the bottom just yet I don’t think. I think in a week or so I’ll start watering for 15% run off. I don’t plan to use any liquid nutrients for 4-5 weeks as this is strong soil I was told.
So…about that plant that I was worried about last night, I transplanted it first. I then came back to bring back the next plant and it had already perked right up!! I was so amazed on how fast that happened, it was definitely super thirsty. I’m just a tad worried now that since they’re drinking a lot and this soil is strong that they might suck up too much and get nut burn. I can only hope that doesn’t happen.
Since they’re in new 3g pots, they’re higher up now so the distance from the 600w MH light that’s on 75% ballast is 38". The RH is at 25% and temp ranges between 68-77°f. I know the RH isn’t good but I have no way to fix it. It’s always so low in my house since we have central air and it really keeps the humidity out. The only time it actually gets humid a bit is in the summer when windows are open. I’ve tried spraying the aluminum walls with water constantly but it dries up so fast and barely changes anything before it drops again. I’ve tried hanging wet towels in there but that doesn’t really do anything too much before drying as well.
It actually is quite important to thoroughly water after transplant or you risk getting large dry pockets in your soil you want new roots to spread out evenly. When transplanting quite often your soil acts hydrophobic and water added doesn’t spreead out underneath plant where it is needed
and take your time about it you want the soil to absorb moisture everywhere so leave tray for 20 min or so after this will let the soil wick moisture to every corner roots can and will grow inches in a day. You want them to fill as much of pot as possible don’t worry soil shouldn’t be too hot and you won’t notice too much top growth for a few days as they stretch their footing
The other side to that coin is you want your soil to dry out between waterings. I take them pretty far although causing your plants to wilt may hermi them. Doing this also promotes root growth as the plant has to “hunt” for moisture. It also eliminates most fungus gnat problems.
Low rh is preferable than too high in flower! I fight the low humidity in my area too during veg. However; I have a dehumidifier in my space for late flower.
I don’t fight RH I clone my ladies so most seedlings I sprout are forced to adapt to my climate those that thrive are cloned and grown as mothers. Evolution dictates that those that best suit my climate are those which are hardiest and most likely to produce
I had no idea you could actually cause a hermi, I thought they just happen very rarely to plants. & That’s good to know that letting it dry well stops gnats. Thanks.
been crazy for me lately sorry for responding so late @Donaldj is one of the best to get direction from so you are for sure in good hands.
It is amazing what you start learning about these lil magical plants soon you will be able to gain confidence in your growing abilities and diagnose issues. You are certainly on the right track lookin good and sorry for the late reply
So, getting some weird yellowing around the serrated edges on one plant, leaves are sagging slightly on another and the other 4 seem to be doing okay it seems. I’m assuming the one with the slightly laid back leaves is due to too much light and I say that because I’m thinking that the reason the yellow serrated parts on the other plants is some type of light burn? It can’t be any type of nut. deficiency with Roots org original only a few days in… can it? …unless the PH were off and it’s not drinking but then it would be saggy and the PH came out fine when I tested it after watering the other day with that run off. I think it was 7.3 which idk how it was that high when I ph’d water to 6.5-6.8 and people say Roots is acidic. Anyways, I think that’s still fine though? No idea how I’d go about testing it again without watering it more but it’s still nice and wet.
So, just going to think it’s too much light even though the 600w MH is 36-38" above the tops of all the plants. GAH, I don’t know. I had set the light from 75% to 100% after two days and now I’m getting this, I don’t actually know if it’s light or not. People have lights at 18-24" and yet mine is at 36-38"… So confusing because the symptoms look like a bunch of different things, just trying to rule things out one by one. Take a look real quick, what do you think? Maybe it is the light? Maybe I should go back to 75%? One plant sags slightly and one has this serrated tip stuff yet the rest seem to be doing fine and even one seems to be LOVING everything and looks absolutely beautiful and amazing and hopefully never has a problem, haha. I may just try it out for 1 more day and see if things get better, if not, switch back to 75% and see if things stop. …unless anyone else has an idea, haha.
I tend to want to be proactive a lot, yet maybe sometimes I should just wait and see what happens. Sorry :x
It is possible to get nute burn from the soil
For some strains soils like fox farm ocean forest or roots organics, these soils are chock full of nutrients and for some strains it is a lil hot
Also have you filled out a support ticket
I cruised through your thread and did not see one
COPY/PASTE the below list into your forum post.
Answer these simple questions the best you can.
If you do not know, or do not use something; Just say so = NA
Strain; Type, Bag seed, or NA
Soil in pots, Hydroponic, or Coco?
System type?
PH of runoff or solution in reservoir?
What is strength of nutrient mix? EC, or TDS
Indoor or Outdoor
Light system, size?
Temps; Day, Night
Humidity; Day, Night
Ventilation system; Yes, No, Size
AC, Humidifier, De-humidifier,
Co2; Yes, No
If you can, upload a picture of your plant. It helps the diagnosis, if needed.
Add anything else you feel would help us give you a most informed answer. Feel free to elaborate, but short, to the point questions and facts will help us help you
I made a support ticket the first time and they said don’t bother, just come to the forums. This is pretty much just my forum thread I’m using for my entire first grow. I post questions when I have them, and when people get a second, they have been helping me out a bunch. I list everything in each problem for the most part other than soil type/indoor or outdoor since all that wont change. Will always be Roots org original and will always be indoor. This past Sunday (4wk mark from seeds) we went from CFL to the 600w MH @ 36-38" away and they’re in 3gal pots since Monday.
So, I topped all 6 plants today at their 4th nodes even though they all had 5 or 6 because I felt from with all my readings that anywhere between 3-6 is good.
When do people actually cut off the other starter stems to focus the growth on those two near where you topped? Those will be the two that I top once more right? I guess I just let it all grow for now. I can’t find much on this.
I feel as if I should cut off yellowing starter leaves and those seedling leaves since they’re not getting a boat load of light which is why I’m guessing they’re yellowing a bit on some while the rest of leaves are doing just fine other than the one I posted about last night. I’m waiting to see if that serrated edge discoloration will go away naturally.
you don’t you want the plant to be able to produce energy the more you cut off the less energy they make slower they grow ideally you want as much leaf surface getting light as possible. Even slightly damaged leaves in good light produce energy once the plant has lots of new growth you can safely remove damaged or poorly lit leafs.
@Donaldj@Growit@Myfriendis410 Hey, so Sunday will start week 4 of flowering. I’ve yet to flush at all and have been using liquid nutes since week 4 of veg and veg’d 7 weeks. I didn’t flush between veg-flower cycles and don’t know if I should do so now. I don’t know if the flush at the end will be enough to ween out all the nute crap from the harvest. If I do a flush now, how exactly does that happen? Just take tap water and run it through each plant until the run off is the same PPM as the tap water going in? Then do I feed it directly after that with nutes or wait a day or two (or until watering is required) then feed? No idea… Everyone has mixed information online and I’m just looking for what you guys think is best. You’ve gotten be this far on my questions and things are going fine so far, so I figured I’d ask.
I recently bought a dehumidifier since summer is coming and it’s getting humid, in flower @ 60 RH so that helped drop to 35-40 RH. BUT… that caused the area to get 8-12°F hotter raising temp throughout the day from 75-90°F which is too hot. I’m returning the dehumidifier and am looking into a portable AC. This should remove RH and keep the air temp steady around 75 if I want it there. A little worried though because I wont be able to control the RH, only the temp and RH will drop to whatever level it goes to when temp is reduced. I don’t know how I’m going to keep my next grow at higher RH with good temps, no idea. I guess I’ll worry about that when the time comes. I was hoping this dehumidifier would drop the temp slightly AND control RH but it’s only made it a lot hotter.
Anyone know a good portable AC/dehumidifier? I’m looking into buying this tonight. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BPACT10WT-Portable-Conditioner/dp/B01DLPUWG2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1527186321&sr=1-1&keywords=BLACK%2BDECKER+BPACT10WT%2C+10000+BTU
I don’t believe the a/c alone will be enough. If you can’t reject the heat by other means you may need to run both. The problem with a/c is that it only lowers rh when the compressor is on. That’s fine if you want your space at 60°! Not so much at 75.
As for flushing I would follow the instructions provided by the nute manufacturer.
I have all but eliminated my need for flushing through my grows by tracking my ppm and weening down during last 3 weeks of flower and alternating water feed any build ups drop at steady rate if more isn’t added
