Those look over watered to me. In a container that size with such small plants I would be really surprised if you had to water more than once every 7-10+ days, even if youre only giving a liter at a time. The bottom of the pot will stay wet for quite a while.
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Yeah the bottom could be staying wet long but Iāve just been sticking my finger down about 2 inches and water when dry which has been about every 4 days or so
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How should I go about trying to fix it? I shouldnāt water tiāll runoff yet since there small right. These are also photoperiods if that matters
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They are way too small to water to runoff. Honestly they should go more than 4 days in a pot that size. Iād be letting the pots get light, like a loaf of bread light, then water in a circle around the plant, getting wider as the leaves spread out to edges, then should need to go to runoff. I only water every 3 days in Promix, soil should require less frequent watering than Promix.
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Looks to me like the poor babies have got a little root trouble, #1 did you plant straight to soil or germ first? #2 did you prep you soil before planting, like water it good then let it dry a day, fluff up the top couple inches then plant it? #3 did you let your tap water sit for 24 hrs before using it? Chlorine can lock em up for real. #4 did you check the ppms before using it? I seen you said the PH was 6.5 which is good for soil but i keep my ppms around 250/300 ppms also, I do this by using a pinch of epsom salt every watering. If it were mine I would back my lights off to 50%, give them a foliar cal/mag dose with a spray bottle then use the spray bottle to only mist the soil around the plant for a couple weeks and see if they pull out of it. If not sometimes your better off to just drop somemore beans and try again, youāll get there friend and if you need any help just Holler and one of us will be around to try and help you figure her out. 
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I would avoid watering until the bottom of the pot feels dry or the plants start to wilt. The plant will grow roots to the bottom of the pot so as long as some of the dirt has moisture in it the plant will be fine. I would not water to runoff until they get much larger. A liter or less here or there should be fine. If you get runoff the container is either insanely dry or youre watering too much/often. If the dirt on top isnt powdery dry youre watering too often. Just leave them alone and watch and youll be surprised at how long they can last in such a large pot.
Next grow I would start in a 6 inch pot or solo cup and pot up from that about a month after sprouting(depending on growth). When you pot up you always want to put dry into wet. So basically let your plant dry out, water your new soil, dig a hole, and put your dry root ball in. That way you cant over water, even if you pot up early you will be fine.
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I germinated them with the paper towel method and planted them in solo cups once they had a decent sized tail. I started watering them with distilled water in happy frog soil, then I think I transplanted them too early at around 14 days in 5 gallon fabric pots and I pre watered the middle of the pot with around 250 ml of distilled water then I put some mykos and transplanted. Iāve only given nutrients once using the General Hydroponics trio set and switched to tap water the last couple of warerings and just letting it sit out
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Whatās a good way to tell when the bottom of the pot is dry? Yeah I transplanted them from solo cup to a 5 gallon fabric pot too quickly rather then waiting a good month for them, I got impatient not seeing them grow much. Now that one plant is just getting more light green and Would you recommend feeding it for my next step? Maybe Hungry for Nitrogen idk. Last time I watered was 4 days ago with 800 ML of Plain Tap water with ppm of 231
I would also suggest doing a few slurry tests of your soil to see where its setting at, if you have ph and ppm meters, even the cheapoās will work. This will give you a much better ideal of what your plants have available to them and tell you where your ph is actually riding at.
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I have both pens. How do I do a proper slurry test? @VaHillbilly
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You will want to pull a few samples from different spots around your pot at different depths, think Top. Middle, bottom and like a 10, 2, and 6 oāclock position if your looking down at a circular pot. i personally use a piece of round metal tubing (brake line) about a Ā¼" and about 2 ft long, thats what I take a sample with in my 5 gallon fabric pots, then I use a smaller diameter 2 Ā½ā piece of bamboo (skewers) to push the material out of the brake line with and into a solo cup. I take 3 samples usually at the 10, 2, and 6 positions, I push the metal tubing from the surface all the way down to the bottom of the pot, this is a good cross section of whats in there. After adding all the samples to the solo cup I add distilled water to it just enough to cover the soil, then let it sit for about an hour, stirring it up halfway thru. Strain off water into another cup and test PH and PPMs. Easy, peasy. 
P.s dont get too close to your rootball !! Stay back about halfway. You want to do as little damage as possible. Very Very important part 
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Thanks alot!! Iāll try that test out then and see what results I get
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So I just did the Slurry test and this is what I got.
1st Sample 6.6 PH 800 ppm
2nd Sample 6.7 PH 533 ppm
3rd Sample 6.8 PH 793 ppm
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Those numbers are a touch hot for a seedling,IMO, that may have been your problem. When starting my seeds and getting them to the first up-pot, usually around 3 to 4 weeks, I would want my medium to be in the 3-500 ppm range and of course a 6.5 ph, I use a very light mix of peat, vermiticulite, rice hulls, coir, char, and about Ā¼ of my existing vegging soil. I usually mix about a gallon at a time myself and have found that by adding fresh amendments periodically it helps keep my other pots pretty stable. I dump the left overs into the 40 gal pots I use to flower with. 
I also do not feed anything to the seedlings until they are up-potted and had time to developed enough of a root system to utilize the chelated nutrients. Then after they get settled into their new 5 gallon pots I would take it on up into the 500 to 800 ppm range to get ready to watch Her take off.
There almost 30 days old now in 5 gallon pot. What should my next step be? I thought she was hungry. The leaves are turning purple now as well @VaHillbilly
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Yeah she fighting a lock out, you can try a calcium/magnesium foliar feeding to them and watch for any response, maybe also tea made from a little worm castings.
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I would not feed for 3 weeks to a month or longer depending on growth/light etc. Happy Frog should be fine for a while. As far as how to tell if the pot is dry I like to lift it up and put my palm flat against the bottom. Since youre fighting a little bit of an uphill battle with the large pot, I would wait until the pot felt light and the bottom did not feel damp at all. Then I would water with ~ 1 liter or so and increase the amount of water each time depending on growth until the plant could handle a proper watering. Once it starts to take off this wont take long. Unless youve done something terribly wrong small plants like this will not show deficiencies due to a lack of nutrients. Its likely to either be underwatering(leaves start to die back at the base they get dry/crispy, tops yellow, growth slows branches die off) or overwatering aka watering too often(āheavyā looking āfatā leaves, whole plant likely yellowing, can look like its too cold or overfed with leaf curl, lower leaves die off as roots cant supply nutrients anymore).
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Hmm sounds like some overwatering couldāve been happening. Thanks for the advice!
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Like I was saying, your medium has plenty in it so you dont need to worry about putting anything in. Less is usually more when it comes to growing. With that being said if your rootzone or Rhizosphere is not happy and is out of the proper PH range your roots can not access those nutrients doing what we call āa lock upā. A foliar feed which is absorbed through the leaves, can work as a band-aid until the roots heal enough to transport nutrients again. The reason I suggested the calmag is because calcium and magnesium are usually the first to show and easiest to correct.
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