I wonder if I should do a another flush with three times the container or if I should just lighten feedings because I think with me giving it to tiger bloom it is making it worse because the tiger bloom has nitrogen in it and my ppms is 6 to 900 and I don’t know for sure if it’s maxed out or not but yeah I’m thinking maybe I should just water with no nutrients for the next couple of days and see what that does
Let me ask this how bad does it look? Now over the past week or so leaves have been getting removed every day from either Browning all the way and dying are these look so bad so I cut them off, because I know the leaves are never going to get fixed again so I’m trying to be able to tell when my nitrogen problem is fixed you know so that’s why I got rid of all the bad looking leaves. It was looking like it was improving until when I woke up this morning I noticed another few leaves the ones in the pictures maybe it’s just a delayed effect from days ago. It doesn’t look that bad though right?
Oh I have the fox farm Bush doctor Cal mag and was also curious about that, why is it Bush doctor, I believe Fox farm has two different Cal mags and I’m wondering the difference
I’m not going to lie to you, and deficiency takes time to heal and with that said. Keeping PH between 6.2-6.8 , calmag, bloom an boost Nutrients and monitoring you can fix her I’m sure.
I don’t use FF Nutrients.
I use Lotus pro series. Amazon 4 pack veg,bloom ,boost ,calmag $23
What is the difference with Bloom and boost nutes? Yeah my pH stays at 6.4. I’ve been kind of scared of the Cal mag I only gave it once not sure how often to give
Can I ask why you don’t use Fox farm? Because it’s too hot? I can’t believe your nutrients are that cheap. Fox farms stuff is like 17 and $20 a bottle.
Here is something else I’m wondering about I’m at week 5-6 in flower and only putting in 6 to 800 ppms at a time when you look at the schedule see how it says the PPM for week 5 in flowers should be 1400. But I’m scared to give more than three teaspoons of tiger bloom so I don’t know what to do to get my ppms higher but not burn the plant at the same time
These are water soluble fertilizers? I think the info provided above is good, just wanted to ask about these.
I am using water soluble fertilizer (I think) but these numbers don’t refer to that. These numbers are the cal and mag values of the water I have been using. I’m stopping that now and switching to tap water, with the values provided at the top of this thread. Which are: Calcium 267 mmol /Liter. Magnesium: 0.48 mmol / Liter. no idea still what mmol means. My question is: is that enough cal and mag or shall I add some cal mag?
Elements naturally suspended in water aren’t always plant available, was the reason I asked.
These measurements look like they would come from human health supplements here, maybe you are from across the pond? I’m not familiar with the conversion to ppm or ec but I’m sure there is a calculator to convert it available though. Either way, the amount of calcium and magnesium needed in your grow would depend on how much is in your growing media and base nutrients. For instance, I don’t supplement any calcium to my plants because there is enough in my 3 part base fertilizers.
Indeed, that’s exactly right @dbrn32 . I’m in Germany and here you can get up to date water values for your exact location (within a few city blocks). Every time I try to find out what the heck mmol is I land on some medical site. But thanks for insight about these not always being available to plants. I’ve added a „preventative“ amount of calmag to latest feed. We‘ll see!
Too high if soil life is not strong. Looks hungry. High ph will cause an uptake issue. First ting I would do is stabilize ph. Some epsom top dress also. Mag and calcium will affect each other. Here are pics of mag deficiency and recovery after epsom addition. As can see calcium spots followed that mag prob.
Most issues tend to start with ph.
Lovely looking plant in the last photo, @Storm! Wow.
PH was 7.0 before adding in organic nutes. Manufacturer (BioBizz) claims their products bring PH down a bit. Having acquired a PH tester pen yesterday, I measured the PH of some leftovers of what I gave the plants during their last feeding. It was PH 6.8.
Just fed the plants again today.
What went in:
PH 6.50
µS/cm 1970
ppm 980
What came out:
PH 6.22
µS/cm 1870
ppm 947
Can someone clarify for me what this µS/cm reading is? I’m assuming my tester converts TDS into PPM, and that this µS/cm is my “EC” reading? But info on this very site says ideal EC for flowering is EC 1.9-2.3. Am I right in assuming that the ILG chart I’m looking at (here) is simply using a different measurement?
That is, my EC reading of 1970 is, as per ILG’s chart, 1.97? I’m having palpitations like I’m back in grade 10… and STILL **** at math!
Thank you!
Nice. Same thing with general hydroponics nutes. Let the trio sit a bit once mixed and ph adjusts. As for runoff numbers others have you. I am living soil so no testing.
In soil pH, microsiemens per centimeter (µS/cm) is a unit of measurement for electrical conductivity (EC), which is a measure of a solution’s ability to conduct electricity:
If your us/cm is 1970 =1.97 EC.
At least that’s how I understand it.
Thanks @DanB !
Hey @DanB how’s it going? I have a question if anybody could answer I have cultivation Nation pH up can see that it has a k of 35 the NPK is 0-0-35. Can somebody tell me why that is and if that k is good for flowering, so what I’m wondering is if I just bring my pH down enough to where I need to use some pH up then I would be supplying k to the plant just from using this pH up? I don’t use it too often very rarely needed but just having this idea with the k being so high wondering if I can use it to boost, I’m like week 6 in flower and two teaspoons of tiger bloom puts me around 600 PPM so they get around 6 to 700 PPM and I know it should be higher. I appreciate help with the answers to my questions. Thank everybody









