I will say this they look real healthy
So your not far off on your ph get a good ph pen im thinking your in the right range 6.3 to 6.8 but 6.5 is the golden ticket lol
Good job keep it up
Sorry @maineguy, I just realise that this is your topic. 
Hope that you don’t mind about the help given to Fever …
Sorry again
~Al
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No Problem Niala, the threads about ph issues so the more info the better.
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Thanks mainguy 
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Will,it turned out you were 100% correct. I finally received a digital ph tester after returning one to Amazon that didn’t work at all. I fed/watered my plants and tested the runoff on one of them and it was just a hair less than 6.
I’ve still not seen any negative signs at all and they have been growing steadily about 1.5"+ per day. A little over 3 days ago I switched to 12/12 lighting and today saw the first signs of flowering. I have ordered some ph up and will start using it when it arrives.
I’em really glad it worked out for ya. and your plants look great.
Please keep me posted through out their flower peirod ok
Will
It looks like I have a different kind of problem. They seem to be growing too well. I watered and fed them yesterday afternoon and the tallest one grew another 2" just overnight. It’s now about 6" below the light and I can’t raise the light any higher. The light is an advanced platinum 300 led and I can hold the palm of my hand right on it and it’s just a little warm so I’m not worried about it burning the plant but at this rate it will be touching the light in a few days if it doesn’t slow down. What would happen if I had to cut the top down a little? I really hate to do that but might have to.
It looks like that you have enough room to start bending them over and tying them down … back to the pots …so take the top of the plant and tie it back down to the side of the pot and throw it into flower now… if they’re not Autos , I’m not sure , but if they’re light-sensitive put them into flower now or else you’re going to have big issues in the future… 
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Thanks peachfuzz, I had not heard about that. I assume I should do it just a little and adjust a bit more each day to avoid breaking the stem? I’ll make a loop around the stem with a piece of cloth and then use twine from the loop to the pot of an adjacent plant. Does that sound correct?
Sounds perfect… your running out of time and space… your plants are going to be little monster’s for sure… I would start right away if I were you…
Thanks peachfuzz. I’ll do it today. I forgot to add that they are fem white widows and not autos and I switched to 12-12 light 4 days ago.
You only have about 2 and a half weeks left to be able to tie them down and train them… after 2 and a half weeks your plants will harden off and won’t take well to the training… so the sooner the beter… it’ll be kind of like a scrogg but without the net… lol
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Day 12 of flower light mode. I think I’ve bent them about as far as I can. The closest part of the plant to the light is now 14" away and hopefully that will be enough.
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Will,this is the end of week three in 12/12 flower mode. I read one of your posts where you said you stop feeding at 8 weeks,just water for two weeks and then shut the lights off for two days. I plan to follow that advice. Do you keep your lights at 12/12 for the full ten weeks or slowly reduce?
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Has you on the wright track. I’ll check back later or tag me i would like to see how it turns out. Nice job peachfuzz
Will
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Your plants are looking beautiful brother just keep up what you’re doing … if this is the end of week 3 from the light flip you still have 7 to 8 weeks to go or better depending on strain…
Thanks @garrigan62 you know me I’m always just trying to help out and look out for the fellow man and I can’t help but love to see people succeed especially when they’re growing these beautiful plants that we all love so much …
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Thanks peachfuzz. Can I now remove the various tie downs that were used to bend the plants or should they stay for the duration. I was also curious curious if it’s best to keep to the 12/12 light until the end or slowly reduce the amount of light over the next few weeks.
Also went from soil to coco, much easier than soil and I get much better results. As for the pH problem, I use rain water which comes out of the sky at pH7and lower it to about 5.5- 5.8 with lemon juice. Like @Niala said, after a few weeks the run off is the same (usually) as the water that went in.
I would leave them tied down the way they are… I usually never untie them for the hole grow and as far as light schedules let’s tag @yoshi he’s more familiar with that… i have digital timers and it’s a pain in the butt to retime them all the time… also I run a perpetual set up with 3 stages in one area so that would be unrealistic for me… but I do know that it works… @yoshi will have some answers for you…
Remember why you tied them down is to allow lower budding flowers to get light penetration. I’d you remove ties now I suggest you trim bottom fan leaves from bottom to top about two the three nodes high cause they won’t get enough light to fully bud, but that’s a growers choice not a must do and when in flower by extending your dark hours help the plant rebuild resin trichomes that’s decreased during lights on from high intensity lighting even some Led panels puts out intense Par watts, some dispute this method but it’s been proven to work and helps the plant ripen about two weeks earlier especially most sativa dominant plants it’s a good choice due to long flowering periods from 9 weeks up to 14 weeks on a 12\12 lighting schedule. After the first three weeks from the lighting switch to 12\12 is your grace period where many count as flowering but actually is consider pre-flower when the plant transitions from begging to bloom, than week four which is actually the first week of full flower by this time the plant is now wanting more P.K. nutrients of potasium and phosphorus for blooming buds instead of nitrogen but by week four which would be week six from the schedule switch most growers adjust light schedule to 11\13 to force the plant in a more rapid pace of maturity to produce resin tricjomes in efforts to catching pollen from male plants which helps build more crystal resin trichomes on your budding flowers and by week 6 which would be week 8 from the initial switch most even extend the schedule another hour to 10\14 which gives the last of the remaining flowering period to force even more resin production by the plant and helps it finish faster, but this is not a must do option in my opinion, it’s a growers choice to decide what’s the actual benefits to this method, so don’t do it cause I stated this it’s just my opinion and what I’ve experience in my own grows over the several grows I’ve had great success with, but to get the facts you can research the technique and read on it before you commit to doing so, are if you have multiple plants and you want to experiment to see if this even works I suggest you try it at some point in your growing, I hope this make sense and I’m sorry for the long response, I was trying to explain the reason so it could be understood, happy growing my friend;!!!
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